Availability: participating Bells

Location: 3511 W. Devon Ave., Chicago, IL 60659 (map); phone: (773) 588-9712

Rating: 3 out of 5 – acceptable

New menu items can obviously be hit-or-miss affairs, but Taco Bell’s additions have been surprisingly more pleasant than they seem to have any right to be. And while the Triple Layer Nachos didn’t stick to their Value Menu pricing as well as their Cheesy Double Beef sibling at my particular location (they’re listed at 79 cents online, though the web site does warn that prices and items may vary), the meatless combination of “nacho chips, covered in simmering red sauce, hearty beans and nacho cheese sauce” remained quite palatable — and under a dollar (even with tax).

Traditionally, whenever I order a plate o’ nachos from a border Bell, I get bored about halfway through when I run out of cheese and start to wonder how the tortilla chips would taste with some slices of jalapeno. In this case, I didn’t even miss the usual ground beef as there seemed to be enough beans and nacho cheese for at least two-thirds of the contents in the container. Mysterious red sauce strikes again, but makes little impact (on taste or perceived spiciness), leaving me to rip open the necessary Fire Sauce packets for any meaningful kick. Still, for a Taco Bell dish without meat, I’m shocked again by how my relatively decent experience is only enhanced by the budget price point. If only all meatless dishes could be as gooey and filling — without making me yearn for beef.